Ultimately, it doesn’t really matter.Īn S curve is a good way to adjust contrast. Usually I prefer to use Curves for Contrast, but in the above example I’ve further bumped up contrast by using the slider. Make sure you’re editing at full brightness before starting, otherwise it’s easy to misjudge the exposure. Here’s a link of the color calibration device I use.Įxposure is quite self explanatory, usually it’s the first thing I fix. I mention this, because I learned it the hard way – for the first 2 years of my photo “career”, my edits were all over the place due to my completely messed up laptop screen. If you’re using a random windows laptop or monitor, like I am, then the best thing you could do is buying an external color calibration device to ensure your colors are right. If you use a Mac or an iPhone, those usually have great colors by default. If you’re using a Samsung phone for example, it will have a boosted oversaturated colorprofile enabled by default, you should disable that to get the correct colors. The use of luminance is very situational, so play around with it to find the sweet spot.īefore you start editing, it’s good to make sure your screen’s color settings are somewhat correct. In urban night photography, I usually use it to make certain colors glow, adding contrast to certain areas of the image. In portraits, it’s useful for skin tones. Luminance can help make individual colors highlight more, or it can flatten them. I try to usually compensate this by decreasing the overall saturation when needed, if the photo looks oversaturated as a result. Warm colors are a good contrast for the blue, so I usually bump those up by a bit. Hue helps you adjust individual colors hues, typically I like to look for contrasting colors here and make them opposite of each other, or just generally correct things like skin tones. The HSL tool stands for Hue Saturation Luminance on Lightroom. Side-note: It’s easy to overdo colors and saturation – be careful of overprocessing! Once I have a decent blue-ish tone, it’s time for HSL to fine tune each individual color. Tint towards greens for cyan or purple towards… purple. I like to go for a colder white balance, achieving a blue look. Split tone color grades can look fake, but I sometimes use them in moderation for photos that are difficult to color grade with WB only. Color curves are a complicated method to achieve what I feel is mostly the same thing. The other methods would be using the color curves, or the split toning method. This is same as adjusting your white balance, whether it is in-camera or in post. My preferred method is simply by using the temperature section on lightroom. There’s a couple of different methods you can use to achieve a certain color on an image. If you’d prefer to watch, I’ve embedded some videos from my youtube channel: Read my night photography shooting guide for more information on the subject. In this article, I will briefly explain how I edit my nighttime street photography using Adobe Lightroom.īefore you start, you should ensure you’re shooting in the optimal way, meaning capturing RAW files that have preserved highlights at workable ISOs. I often get asked about my editing techniques, particularly for my night photos.
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